The Basics
Basically, there are two types of blush; cream and powder.
For optimal results, we use Cream Blush on tinted moisturizer or on a face that hasn't been made-up with foundation and powder, and Powder Blush if it has.
Before applying Powder Blush, the face must be powdered to prevent it from appearing blotchy. If you have large pores, into which your Powder Blush tends to settle, use a cream-to-powder foundation.
Natural looking results are achieved by applying a further layer of face powder with a large brush over your Blush.
For those women who feel a lipstick works well in place of Blush; it doesn't. The higher skin temperature of the cheeks will cause the lipstick's pigmentation to separate from its base substances.
But it is correct that cheek and lip colours correspond. They don't have to be an exact match, but they must be of the same colour family.
Blush must also correspond to the foundation or natural skin tone. A soft pink on a beige complexion would appear completely unnatural, and do nothing (good) for the wearer.
Because many women are uncertain when it comes to blush, brown or flesh tones are the common choice. This is absolutely correct for day-wear, when a natural freshness is sought, but quite inappropriate for evening-wear. Colours are swallowed by night light and need a certain vibrancy that browns and flesh tones lack.
The Colours
Cold blueish and pink tones, including fuchsia and rosewood, are at the height of fashion in 2010, and best worn by cool winter and summer types.
Warm, yellow based colours, including salmon, coral, cinnamon and brick red create a soft effect, and are easy to blend.
The natural looking browns, terracotta, amber and sienna are the easiest to blend and match, making them the most popular colours, regardless of fashion.
Strong reds, like hibiscus and tomato, are superb for brown-toned and dark skins.
The strength of colour achieved will depend on the size of brush and pressure applied. For large areas, we use a large brush for a natural effect. For precision and intensity, we use a smaller brush. The large brush is also used to apply bronzer to the entire face.
Adding healthy looking colour to our cheeks is only one aspect of blush. Besides that, it should impact a positive influence on our face shape; an angular face, for example, can be made to appear softer, a round face clearer cut.
Face Shapes
The Oval Face
This is the most versatile of face shapes. Its owner can choose her look at a whim.
For a youthful, fresh, natural look, she needs to do nothing more than stroke a large brush directly over her cheekbone. This also has the effect of filling out the thin faced.
Light colours will bring about a certain freshness.
For a glamorous, extravagant look, the Blush should be placed at a slant just at the point where the cheekbone slopes down to the cheek. Intensive colours are applied with a smaller brush.
This look is powerful and defined, suitable for evening-wear.
The Heart Face
The heart face is the most difficult as far as applying Blush is concerned.
Without make-up, this face appears pointy, with the chin attracting attention. It has to be softened and turned to an oval.
Using the smaller brush, begin at the cheekbone's outermost point and work downwardly and inwardly, but inwardly no farther than at a vertical level with the outer eye corner.
Now go back to the point at which you begun, and using only what is left on the brush, cover the temples and, working upwards, the corners of the forehead. Don't be afraid of going up into the hairline.
Never apply Blush in a sloping direction as we do on the oval face, since it will make your face appear very thin or haggard.
The Square Face
The square face is spacious and has a wide chin.
It looks good with Blush applied diagonally halfway down the cheekbone, rather than directly on it. This lower placement breaks up the space, and takes weight off the chin.
The face is softened by shading the corners of the forehead. To do this, use what is left on the brush.
The Round Face
If we are using Blush to form contours, we absolutely mustn't use any kind of glitter particles or shiny effects; this would actually accentuate our roundness. Only matte products can be used here, and browns work best.
Using the smaller brush, begin at ear level and work along the cheek contour towards the mouth corner. Short, sketchy movements assure good blending.
Using what is left on the brush, cover the narrowest area between eye-brow and hairline.
Good to know ...
- When applying Blush, always use the least possible pressure. Apply more only where the colour should be more intense.
- If your complexion is light, use only a light Blush. Darker ones only look good on tanned or dark skins.
- Only use what is left on the brush when shading the forehead. Never re-load.
- Glittery and glossy Blush may only be used on an absolutely perfect complexion. The same applies to bronzers. Such products cannot be used to form contours either.
- Never blend with the finger; the foundation will be ruined.
- For cream blush, where no foundation is involved, apply with the ring finger. You can further blend with a wedge shaped sponge.
One final word ...
Whatever you do, don't be afraid to apply blush.
Start practicing when you get a few minutes to yourself. In no time at all, you'll find it as easy as applying lip-gloss.
